Gangteng Monastery or Gangtey Goenpa, perched on a small hill that rises from the valley floor, is the biggest Nyingmapa monastery in Bhutan on the western side of the Black Mountain. The Monastery is surrounded by a large village inhabited mainly by the families of the Gomchens who take care of the Monastery.

Established by Gyalse Pema Thinley, the grandson of famous saint Pema Linga, this monastery sits atop a hill at an altitude of 2,800m above sea level, and offers stunning views of the beautiful Phobjikha valley. In 1613, Pema Trinley established the monastery and became the first Gangtey Tulku. The religious traditions of Pema Lingpa still taught there. The second Tulku, Tenzin Legpa Dondrup (1645 to 1726), enhanced the size of Gangtey monastery and rebuilt it in the form of a Dzong.
 

Situated on the edge of the forest and wetland along the main road of Phobjikha valley, the black-necked crane information Centre has an observation room equipped with high power telescope and spotting scopes for catching the best view of the cranes. The centre also offers display information that outline the natural and cultural history of the area. There is a small gift shop, which sells handicrafts produced by the local people.

Opening Hours: Monday – Sunday, 9 a.m. – 5 p.m.

The history of this quaint temple goes back far in time and was built by Tibetan Lama Tshenden Dawa in the 17th Century. It is a relatively easy and pleasant hike up the hill to Kumbu Lhakang Temple, alternatively it is also possible to bike along the feeder road. Kumbu Temple offers several interesting statues, and many historical artifacts and scriptures.

On the main floor there is statue of ‘Sangay Menla’, the Medicine Buddha. The Bhutanese people believe that when they suffer from an illness, they pray to the Medicine Buddha and chant his mantra prior to taking traditional medicine. They believe the Medicine Buddha will bless them and they will recover from their illness. Climbing up the traditional Bhutanese staircase (steep wooden ladder) to the second floor, you visit statues of ‘Duesum Sangay’ and the temple of ‘Goenkhang’. ‘Duesum Sangay’ represents the Buddha of the past (Amitabha), the Buddha of the present (Sakyamuni) and the Buddha of the future (Maitreya).’Goenkhang’ is the temple of the protective female deity called Sipey Gyelmo. The deity is a friendly spirit, looking after the local people. Females are not allowed to enter the ‘Goenkhang’ temple. On the 29th day of the eight month of the Bhutanese calendar, Kumbu Lhakang performs a special ritual known as ‘Kumbu Tsham Choe’, to commemorate the death of Lama Tsenden Dawa who built the Kumbu temple. It is about one hour walk from Gangtey village to Kumbu Lhakhang.

This pleasurable walk provides opportunity to get nice feel of Phobjikha valley. From the small hilltop overlooking Gangtey Goemba, you head downhill through flower meadows to Semchubara village and from here through beautiful forests and into open valley. The trail ends at the local community school after passing a chorten and Khewal Lhakhang.

Distance : 5.5 km, Time : approx. 2 hours, Difficulty level : Easy

This is a leisurely and enjoyable walk through small beautiful villages where you will get to see traditional village life and charming village houses. Follow the Gangtey Nature Trail from the Goemba and into the forest after Semchubara village. Rather than following the path leading down the valley, this trail continues on dirt road upwards into the first left side valley, The dirt road will lead you into Jangchu Kemba village and from there you can follow a path linking all the small villages until you reach Gopho. From here you decent through the marsh land near Khewa Lhakhang.

Time : approx. 2 – 3 hours, Difficulty level : Moderate

This is a leisurely village hike which takes you across the valley to a local Lhakhang. From the community school you will follow the dirt road further down into the left side of the valley. When reaching Kilkorthang village you will cross the cluster of village houses to the valley edge, before starting to descend down into the valley. A small wooden bridge takes you across the interesting stream delta formation. From here, you can continue straight towards the easily recognizable Damchoe Lhakhang.

Time : 20 minutes drive to Khewa Lhakhang & 1 hour hike

Damchen Lhakhang was founded by Terton Trulku Paljor Gyeltshen, one of the sons of the great omniscient Kunkhen Longchen Rabjam in 14th Century. The small ancient monastery was mainly the seat of the master used as his retreat centre. Trulku Paljor Gyeltshen was a great treasure discover and he was the true incarnation of Lhasey Muthri Tsenpo, Prince of Tibetan King Thrisong Duetsen. Trulku Paljor Gyaltshen founded many monasteries within Bhutan.

The monastery has got three main statues of Lord Buddha which was built during his time. The monastery was taken cared by the local villagers. Later it was offered to His Holiness Gangteng Rinpoche as the local people couldn’t taken good care of it. Then in 2014, His Holiness Gangteng Rinpoche appointed His Eminence Jamdrak Trulku Tshewang Tenzin Rinpoche as regent(Lama) of Damchen Lhakhang. Under his appointment as the resident Lama, His Eminence Trulku Rinpoche has brought many developments and the monastery currently houses 17 monks with two teachers. Trulku Rinpoche is taking care of the monastery and the monks starting from food, teachings and shelter free of cost under finding generous sponsors for the support of monks and monastery.

From the East to West, National Highway which is about 5km from Pele La (the main pass dividing East and West Bhutan) towards Trongsa, we get off from our vehicle at Lhongmay, a roadside village comprising of 5 households. The trail that leads to Lhongtey is below the motor road and we proceed to follow the trail through the bamboo thickets and crossing a small wooden bridge next to a tiny chorten gradually up to the village of Lhongtey, which proudly displace its landmark of 6 houses all facing towards the East for the early sunlight and its warmth.

We then climb up gradually and continue our journey through the village towards the Gyeche la pass (3,590m). The trail that we are hiking on is being, mainly used in the olden days before the motor road came, by the natives of Gangtey and Sephu for trading and movement of yaks to higher grazing meadows during the winter months.

The vegetation that we encounter on this hike ranges from blue pine, dwarf bamboos, maple, larch, rhododendron, birch, oak, spruce, hemlock and juniper and some Rosa species. After about two to two and half hours of gradual to steep climb through this pristine mixed forest, we reach Gyeche La Pass marked by a stone structure with prayer flags. The view from here of Phobjikha Valley and its monastery Gangtey Goenpa is absolutely gorgeous ad break taking.

After a brief photo break here on the pass, we then continue to descent quite steeply but with option of switch – backs trails. For those who have trouble with knee problems, please be cautious with every step you take. Walking sticks will be highly recommended on this trail. Once we happily complete our descent to the bottom after about 45-minutes, we make a stop at the Kumbu Monastery and other retreat and meditation centre at the back drop against the precarious cliffs but with absolute tranquil for those meditators mediating for at least 3 years with complete cut off from the rest of the world.

As we gradually following the dirt road, we will notice that the valley widens and open with more scenic and distant views of the Black mountains and its villages. The valley of Phobjikha is also a home to the rare species of Black Necked Cranes, which they dwell during the winter months (beginning of November – beginning of March). So, if you’re hiking during these months please look out for this rare and gorgeous living bird feeding in the fields.
After a short and gradually hike through the pine forest, our vehicle waits for us above the monastery to take us to our lodge which is about 30 minutes ride down in the valley.

Hiking Info:
Difficulty Level: Moderate
Season: Jan to Dec
Maximum elevation: 3,590m
Elevation gain: 540m
Walking distance: 9km (round trip)
Walking time: 4 hours exploration

We begin our day in the morning and after one and a half hour of easy hike in the valley, we reach our first village Kilkhorthang, consisting of about nine household and a beautiful village temple located towards the end of the village. We remain on farm road for about half an hour by when it reaches a vista point and can view distant villages in Phobjikha Valley. 

From this wonderful vantage point, we take the road to our left towards Tangjey where it leads with a gradual climb and a breath taking and fantastic approaching sights of the surrounding villages and farmers working in their fields, where they cultivate buckwheat, potatoes and turnips. 

Finally, after about an hour of gradual walk from the road junction, we reach picturesque and spacious hamlet of Tangjey having its temple located above the village with total serenity and dominance from its golden roof. 

After our visit inside the temple, we then cross a wooden bridge, following the Chu Karp to your right through the village community school till the bridge across Mr. Snake River, which give access to our way back to the lodge.

Hiking Info:
Difficulty Level: Moderate
Season: Jan to Dec
Maximum elevation: 3,050m
Walking distance: 11km (round trip)
Walking time: 5 hours exploration

Located in the east side of Phobjikha valley, opposite Tabiting, the 15th century Khewa Lhakhang is one of the oldest in valley. The temple is said to be built by Tulku Penjor Gyeltshen in Tibetan style and houses statues of the past, present and future Buddha. The Lhakhang is circled by river all around and it is believed that there is a lake underneath temple also. The lhakhang was constructed to control famine, diseases and ward off evil spirits. The temple also hosts a festival on the third day of the ninth months, when local men (not monks) perform dances, celebrating an ancient victory over local demons.